Tag Archives: cat

Cat bites hand

Cat behavior: Love Hurts! When your cat says “FANGS for the new home!”

We’ve all seen examples of the “perfect” cat, who will curl up with you on the couch and let you pet and brush him for hours, and who sleeps peacefully at the foot of your bed all night long.

In reality, cats are individuals just like their humans, and they have their own ideas about… well, just about everything!

One of our fabulous recent cat adopters has a question about their new family member’s “biting” behavior:

…how can we keep her from biting when she gets overly excited. At night when we are sleeping she will jump up and bite our hands to wake us up to pet her, or if she’s sitting by us and we are petting her, she gets so excited that she will randomly attack our hand… why does she do this and how can we make her stop?

There are two separate issues at play (no pun intended). First, the waking up for play and attention:

Although we all try to get our cats to adjust to the human sleep schedule, in nature, cats are nocturnal. Many cats adopted from shelters have embraced their nocturnal nature by the time they find a forever home, and it can take some time and discipline to get them to accept the humans’ idea of sleep time.

The most important thing in this situation is to not reward the cat’s unwanted nighttime behavior by giving them what they want. At the cat’s first attempt to wake you, say “No!” and push the cat gently away, then tuck those arms under the covers so she can’t continue to nip at your hands.

The next “escalation” of nighttime training can be the addition of a spray bottle of water within easy reach of the bed – this works best if there are two people, so that the one who is not being approached to play can squirt kitty “out of nowhere” so she doesn’t associate the squirting with a person but with her own behavior. You want her to learn “when I wake up my person, it rains on me” rather than “my person is a mean old water monster”! Some people have success with this method but choose to replace the squirt bottle with a burst of compressed air. Whichever deterrent you prefer, it is important to use it only while the cat is actively nipping or pawing to wake you up; you don’t want to teach the cat to avoid the bed, just to avoid the unwanted behavior.

If in-bed deterrents aren’t appealing to you, or don’t work, the final suggestion is to remove the cat from the bedroom the first time she wakes you. Just calmly say “No” as you pick kitty up and place her outside the bedroom door, which you then close. The first nights you try this, you may be subjected to meowing, pawing at the door, and rattling of the doorknob… earplugs can work wonders.

Cats are more trainable than many people think – they are usually quite smart, and will make the connection between “I nip my sleeping person’s hand” and “I am – spritzed, or puffed, or evicted” fairly quickly. The key is consistency – NEVER reward unwanted behavior by giving the cat what they want (which is generally attention), and ALWAYS use the same techniques to deflect or deter the unwanted nighttime wake-up call.

Now, on to the second issue – biting during petting or grooming sessions:

This sort of biting is generally called “overstimulation biting” and occurs when the cat’s humans don’t understand or pay attention to the cat’s body language. In simplistic terms, think of petting or grooming as an activity that fills up the cat’s affection cup. Once the cup is full, the cat becomes annoyed at the extra affection spilling out over the top, and begins to say “enough already” by some or all of these signals: flattened ears, swishing tail, twitching back, narrowed eyes, dilated pupils. Once you see any of those signs, it’s time to calmly disengage from petting or grooming, to give kitty time to absorb the affection stored in the cup.

The most common areas of the cat that lead to overstimulation are the back/tail and the belly; they usually will tolerate more petting around the head and neck, and chin scritches are welcome too.

If you want to increase your individual cat’s tolerance so you can have longer petting or grooming sessions, it can be done with some patience and dedication.

First, you need to find out how long on average you can pet your cat before she starts showing any signs of overstimulation. Let’s say she makes it for 3 minutes before that first tail twitch starts. Now that you know she has a 3-minute tolerance, spend several days petting her for only 2.5 minutes, so your petting sessions always end with her happy and content.

After several days of successful petting sessions, you can gradually increase the length of time for the sessions – add 20 or 30 seconds each day or two so she learns to tolerate gradually longer sessions. If she does get overstimulated and bite, say “No bite!” and gently remove your hand and end the petting session; go back to the shorter length for a few more days before gradually increasing the time again.

There are also cats who are simply “love nippers” – they really can’t help it, they want to gently grab a little bit of their favorite human between their teeth, without any overstimulation issues at all. While it seems a bit weird, love nips are actually a great compliment – your kitty adores you! Just use the training tips to let her know humans don’t like bites, and she’ll get the hint.

Here is my cat, George, letting me know it’s time to STOP:

Cat bites hand

George's lightning-fast overstimulation response

Cat overstimulation bite

George says "stop petting me. NOW!"

Images copyright © 2011 Sean Gillen, available under CC-BY-SA 3.0 Unported.

Happy at home

Bringing Home Your New Cat

Welcome home

Welcome home

One key to making successful shelter cat placements is managing the expectations of their new people. Here is some information, gleaned from various websites and the personal experiences of our adopters and volunteers, which we like to share with each cat adopter before the day they bring their new family member home. Have other ideas to help make the transition easier? Send us a comment below! You can never have too much good advice.

Welcome home!

Finding the cat of your dreams may have been easy, but fitting a new feline friend into your household usually requires a little patience and time.

To make your cat’s transition as comfortable as possible, we recommend placing her in a quiet, closed-in area such as a bedroom or a small room away from the main foot traffic and other pets, providing food, water, and a litterbox.  Let your new pet get used to that one area for the first few days, sniffing your belongings and finding hiding places.  Make frequent visits to play with, feed, pet, and interact with your new cat.  Then you can begin slowly introducing her to the rest of your house, including the other pets.  We recommend keeping cats indoors at all times for their health and safety, and that of the birds and other outdoor animals, BUT if you decide you want your cat to be an indoor/outdoor cat, do NOT let her go outside for at least two weeks after bringing her home, and then begin with short, supervised visits to the yard, so your cat can get her bearings and recognize her home turf.  Always put a collar with ID information on a cat who goes outside.

Cat Buddies

Cat Buddies


Your resident cat will sense this “intruder” in his home; be sure to spend extra time with your resident cat, to help relieve anxiety and tension. Place your resident cat’s food dish near the door to the room where the new cat is confined.  Gradually move the confined cat’s food closer to the inside of the door.  Feed them at the same time so they are separated by only the closed door.  Some growling and hissing is to be expected – this is NORMAL and does not mean the cats will never tolerate each other!

When neither cat growls, hisses, or spits, you are ready to move on to the next step: confine your resident cat, with its own food, water, and litter box, to a location with which he is comfortable.  Allow the new cat to explore your home for brief periods, accompanying it to give it the comfort of your presence as it explores.  Then return the new cat to her “safe room” and let your resident cat out of its room.

It is a good idea to rub each cat with a cloth to transfer its scent to the cloth, then place the cloth with the other cat so they can get used to each other’s scents.

After several days of this, you may be ready to let both cats roam in your house for the first time; try to plan this for mealtime.  Feed the cats in each other’s presence, placing their food dishes a comfortable distance apart.  Some hissing and hesitation are to be expected; hopefully the food will distract them from each other.  Wait only a few minutes after eating to return the new cat to its “safe room.”  If either cat is too disturbed to eat in the other’s presence, return the new cat to its “safe room” and try again the next day.  You can gradually move their food dishes closer to each other; allow the cats to spend progressively longer periods together after they have eaten.  It is advisable to maintain one litter box for each cat, although when they have accepted each other, each cat will likely use both boxes.  Be patient; most cats learn to accept each other over time.

Some anxiety in the resident cat can be alleviated by ignoring the new cat in the resident cat’s presence, and referring to the new cat as “resident-cat’s-name’s friend, new-cat’s-name” (example: “This is Sneakers’ friend Pumpkin, Sneakers will love to play with Pumpkin…”). Sounds weird, but it works!

Cat + Dog

Cat + Dog


Be sure the dog is restrained on a firmly held short leash and the cat is free to escape; do not allow the cat to come within the dog’s biting range.  if your dog guards its food, the cat may risk injury if it approaches the dog’s food, and it may be necessary to move the dog’s food or confine the cat.  If the dog acts aggressively toward the cat, use corrective behavior techniques with the dog.  Dogs can usually be trained to ignore, or even play with, cats.




My kitten doesn’t use his litterbox!

Sometimes cats and kittens are a bit overwhelmed when going to their new home; if they are allowed to roam in too large a space, they may take some time to learn where the litterbox is, and this can lead to accidents.  If you confine your new cat to one room at first, you can then gradually move his litterbox out of that room and into your preferred location, by moving it a few feet per day. The cat will most likely follow the box!  If you witness your kitten missing the box, you can place the kitten into the box and move its paw in a scratching motion – this helps the kitten associate the box with a place it can bury its waste.

My cat uses his litterbox, but sometimes she prefers to use my houseplants!

Fresh dirt can be irresistible to some cats looking for a burial spot; to discourage this behavior, cover the soil surface with pinecones – big and spiny are best.

My cat has runny stools!

This is an extremely common situation for cats and kittens moving to a new home; cats have very sensitive digestive systems, and just the stress of a big change can be enough to bring on diarrhea. Changes in diet that occur in a new home can also contribute to this problem.  It will usually clear up on its own in a few days; be sure the cat has enough water and easy access to the litterbox. If the problem persists or worsens, consult your veterinarian – although shelters do their best to prevent and eradicate diseases among cats, there are a number of minor things that can cause diarrhea; most are easily treated once identified by a stool sample.

My kitten is sneezing and has runny eyes and nose!

One of the most common ailments to strike cats and kittens right after moving to a new home is the upper respiratory infection, or URI. Again, stress is the culprit; kittens that showed no symptoms prior to being placed in the carrier for transport, can begin showing symptoms in a matter of hours after arriving in the vast, scary, unknown world of your house.  Usually, the kitten’s immune system will fight off the URI in just a few days without any veterinary intervention. The closest human example is the common cold; when we are stressed, we are more susceptible to infection by the virus, but generally fight it off quickly with just a bit of chicken soup. (Yes, go ahead and give chicken soup to the kitten if it makes you feel better). If your kitten is not listless or dehydrated, and not running a very high fever, there really won’t be much else you can do to help them get over the “cold” besides cuddling and petting them (OK, OK, and chicken soup).  If, however, your kitten’s nose or eyes begin secreting yellowish or greenish mucous, or the third eyelid begins showing prominently, or your kitten is extremely listless, he may be suffering from a secondary bacterial infection – those CAN be treated with a course of easily administered antibiotics, so definitely take him to see the doctor, and “supercharge” that chicken soup.

My kitten is shredding my couch!

Inappropriate scratching CAN be cured. The first thing is to provide several appropriate scratching places so your kitten can choose the material it likes; sisal posts, corrugated cardboard pads, even logs have been used with success.  Then, to discourage the unwanted scratching, wrap the chosen item in tape, sticky side out – cats DESPISE this feeling on their paws.

My cat won’t come out from under the bed!

She is undoubtedly frightened and disoriented by being in a new place; use this room as her “safe room” for the first few days, and go in and talk quietly to her, read her a book, play music for her – but DON’T force her to come out.  She wants to be friends – she’s just not sure what to expect. Take your time and show her you’re not a big, scary monster, and that she now belongs with you – no more cages or uncertainty!  Cats can be a challenge, but a little patience works wonders.

Here’s a good article on cat communication: http://www.wikihow.com/Communicate-with-Your-Cat

Image Credits:
Cat Buddies: Copyright © 2003 Kim Gillen, available under CC-BY-SA 3.0 Unported.
Cat + Dog: Copyright © 2010 Sean Gillen, available under CC-BY-SA 3.0 Unported.

Underweight Pets

Underweight dog

Underfed Oatmeal at her January 15, 2011, arrival at the shelter.

If your pet looks like this, make sure that you’re feeding them enough; check the package on their food and make sure that you’re meeting or exceeding the feeding recommendations. If you are, check with your veterinarian: weight loss can be caused by parasites, thyroid disorders, diabetes, and other serious but treatable conditions.

Normal-weight dog

Oatmeal on January 23, 2011, after gaining weight from proper feeding at the shelter.

Since her arrival at the shelter, Oatmeal has filled out nicely and has been adopted!


Note: This blog was mistakenly blogged before the blog was to be blogged in our blog. If you read this blog before 5:30 PM PST on November 15, 2010, note that some information in this blog was changed at that time and reblogged.

You’ll sometimes hear people talking about pets – or themselves – contracting “ringworm.” With such an ominous-sounding name, it must be bad, right?

Here’s a little quiz. Don’t worry, it won’t count toward your final grade.
Which of these is ringworm most closely related to?
Common cold
B. Tapeworm
C. Mushroom
D. Earthworm

If you answered A, understand that ringworm isn’t a virus, and it can be treated in many ways, unlike the common cold, to which the only remedy is chicken-noodle soup.
If you answered B, you’re on the right track, but ringworm isn’t a parasite in the usual sense, and it isn’t deadly. And it isn’t a worm.
If you answered C, congratulations, you’ve won… nothing. Your answer was correct, though – ringworm is a fungus, just like the mushrooms you eat. But try not to eat ringworm, please.
If you answered D, ringworm isn’t actually a worm, and it would be difficult to catch fish with it.

So what is ringworm?

Tricophyton rubrum


Ringworm is a contagious skin disease caused by a fungal infection, generally from either the Tricophyton rubrum [right] or Tricophyton mentagrophytes fungi.

Usually, though, when you hear people talking about ringworm, they’re referring to the symptom of this disease, itchy, red “rings” on the skin, shown on the left on a human arm. This is where ringworm gets its name.

To avoid confusion, the remainder of this post will use the scientific terms tinea corporis for the skin disease and dermatophytosis for the symptom caused by the skin disease. When referring to the infection that causes the skin disease, ringworm infection will be used, ringworm fungus for the fungi that causes the infection, and ringworm for these four elements as a whole.

In other words, ringworm consists of a ringworm fungus causing a ringworm infection causing tinea corporis causing dermatophytosis.

Ringworm can be transferred in either direction between humans and pets, most commonly cats, dogs, horses, and rabbits, in that order.

You shouldn’t be afraid of ringworm. If you see dermatophytosis on your pet or yourself, don’t panic, and don’t rush to the nearest (pet) hospital. Tinea corporis just isn’t that big of a deal. It’s not going to make you sick – it’s more similar to athlete’s foot than anything, and even less severe in many cases.

So what should you do in the case of ringworm? If you see dermatophytosis on your pet, make sure to keep it away as best you can from other pets and humans. If you contract ringworm, try to avoid contact with others, wash your hands often, and refrain from touching your eyes, nose, or mouth.

Tinea corporis can be treated and ringworm fungi killed in four ways:

  • The normal best option, for pets and people, is applying over-the-counter creams to dermatophytosis-ridden areas of the skin. Look for creams to treat athlete’s foot; we recommend clotrimazole creams (brand names include Lotrimin and Mycelex).
  • For more serious cases, prescription oral treatments (pills) may be given; we recommend griseofulvin (brand names include Grisovin) or itraconazole (brand names include Sporanox). Talk to your veterinarian or physician.
  • For more serious cases in pets, a solution of lime sulfur (available at your local gardening store, we don’t know why) diluted (16:1 to 32:1) can be used as a pet dip. Make sure to dilute it; if you don’t, it will cause serious injuries and possibly dissolving of your pet.
  • For minor cases in pets, try washing them with specialized shampoos and sprays; we recommend EQyss Micro-Tek. Make sure to read the instructions on the bottle.

It is also often recommended to use a 10:1 diluted bleach solution on household surfaces to eliminate ringworm fungus spores.

Note also that ringworm will usually die down in varying amounts of time even if left untreated.

Ringworm outbreak at shelter infects eighteen adoptable pets

An October ringworm outbreak at the shelter has left eighteen of our twenty-one adoptable pets infected. Infected pets include:

  • Alameda
  • Adriano (adopted after infection)
  • Acosta
  • Aguafria
  • SilverBelle
  • ChiangMai
  • Siobhan
  • Wasabe
  • Lambert
  • Fantasia
  • Doolittle
  • Melinda
  • Six unnamed leMutte puppies

This leaves only Cupid (who is on “longtimers discount”), Surat (currently on “adoption pending”), and Zorro uninfected.

All of these pets (except, of course, Adriano, since he’s already with his new owner) entered treatment on Monday, November 1.

It is important to understand that ringworm is nothing to be afraid of. It is, in fact, even less serious of an infection than athlete’s foot or those mushrooms in your lawn. Stay tuned for a blog about ringworm and why it’s nothing to fear.

Donate a Kuranda Bed

Donate a Bed
Our dogs and cats love to sleep on Kuranda beds, but we don’t have enough for everyone. If you would like to donate a bed at a special wholesale price for a another dog or cat to sleep in comfort, please donate a Kuranda bed